The label “calming signals” was introduced by Norwegian dog trainer, Turid Rugaas. She described over 30 forms of canine behavior and body language which dogs use in social interactions and with humans. In Therapy Dog situations, it’s important for the handler to recognize these “signals,” especially if the dog becomes uncomfortable or feels threatened. The use of calming signals tends to lower the probability that another dog will act aggressively toward the dog (or human) doing the signaling (On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals).

It’s very important to recognize stress in your dog early enough to be able to help your dog overcome whatever is perceived as stressful. Dogs use certain signals to: prevent things from happening (for example, threats from people or animals), or calm nervousness (fear, noise, or anything that they feel is unpleasant). Often, the signals come in quick movements, so quick that we need to really look to see them. As you acquire more experience, you will learn to see these small “flashes.” Other dogs see them. Practice, knowing what to look for, and lots of observations will allow you to catch a glimpse of these signals. At times, you will even be able to see how your dog is feeling. Consequently, you will understand your dog much better. And, isn’t that what we all want? Let’s begin…

TURNING OF THE HEAD: Your dog may use head turning when another dog is approaching in order to tell the other dog to calm down. Maybe your dog was approached too fast or directly head-on instead of in an arc. If you stoop over your dog, the dog’s head may turn. Your dog may stand still, and the head turns, which tells you your dog is experiencing some discomfort in the situation. You can use head turning yourself when a dog starts to get worried or frightened when you approach. When a scared dog starts to bark or growl at you, turn your head.

TURNING AWAY: If your dog turns his back or side to you, he is telling you that he is friendly, trusts you, and is calm. In other words, your dog is trusting that you won’t attack from behind. If your dog jumps up at you, turn away; most likely the dog will stop.

LICKING NOSE: A very quick movement of the dog’s tongue over their nose is a calming signal. Perhaps the dog sees something in the distance coming his way, and he stops, turns his head and licks several times. These behaviors are often referred to as “tongue flicks.”

FREEZING: Often, dogs will freeze, stop, stand, sit, or lie still without moving a muscle when a much bigger dog comes up too close and starts sniffing them all over.

WALKING SLOWLY OR USING SLOW MOVEMENTS: Movements that become slower- sometimes so slow that there is hardly any movement at all-have a calming effect on the dog. If lots of things are going on around your dog, the slower you move, the better the chance you have of making him stand still. For example, if you want to put a leash on your dog, the slower you move, the better the chance you will have of making your dog stand still.

PLAY POSITION: A dog going down with front legs in a bowing position may be an invitation to play. If the dog stands still in a bow, the possibility of this being a calming signal is high. Humans can send the dog a signal by stretching their arms, yawning, stretching down. Your dog may also use this signal when meeting another dog that he does not feel to sure about.

GOING DOWN: When a dog goes down (or gives an even stronger signal by going down with the back to a human) – these actions have a very calming effect on the dog. This signal is often seen when one dog wants to calm another dog who is approaching too quickly. Your dog may do this when you yell to make him come. Humans can use this signal by sitting down when your dog is stressed and cannot relax.

DOWN: A dog lying down on his back with belly up is called “submissive behavior.”. Lying down with belly to the ground is a calming act. This can be a strong signal, too, often used by high ranking dogs.

YAWNING: Yawning is probably one of the most intriguing signals. Your dog may yawn when entering the veterinarian clinic. Humans can use the yawn when your dog feels uncertain, a bit scared, stressed, worried, or when you want him to calm down.

SNIFFING: Dogs sniff in a variety of ways. They can sniff the ground or floor quickly and back up again. Or, a dog can be persistently standing in place for some time until the problem situation is over. Because dogs also sniff to detect smells, humans must see the whole situation in order to understand what it is. Dogs use sniffing when another dog is approaching, when someone is walking straight at them, or when two dogs very suddenly approach too closely. If you call your dog and are a bit annoyed, too commanding with your voice, or perhaps you are standing in full front of your dog, he may sniff several times while coming. Humans can help the dog relax by sitting and scratching the ground.

SPLITTING UP: Physically moving in between dogs or people can send a calming signal to dogs. If dogs or humans, or a dog and human get too close together, the situation can become tense. Many dogs will go between to “split up” the closeness and to avoid conflict. Your dog may do this if you sit tightly together with a friend on the sofa. If dogs become tense, humans can step in between them to ease the situation. Children can do things that make dogs feel uneasy or frightened. In these cases, a human stepping in between can avoid conflict.

TAIL WAGGING: A dog wagging its tail is not always a sign of happiness. Again, we must look at the whole picture. If the dog is crawling toward their human, whining or peeing, the wagging tail is a “white flag” signaling an attempt to calm down.

STRESS VOCALIZATION: Signs that a dog is stressed include: whining, dry and/or heavy wet panting, increased respiration rate, cheek puffing and teeth-clicking.

DOG NOT EATING: A dog refusing to eat could be a sign of stress. For example, the dog refusing to take a treat in obedience class can be a sign of stress.

SHEDDING: A dog excessively shedding can be a sign of stress. Sometimes, a handler may see excessive shedding when the dog visits the veterinarian.

BLINKING EYES: Dogs will frequently blink their eyes to calm us or other dogs down. Humans can also this to calm our dogs down.

SWEATY PAWS: Another signal of a stressed dog is when they leave paw prints on the floor. This can happen in training classes, or during a visit to the veterinarian.

SHAKING OFF: When a dog engages in a full body shake, s/he may be attempting to calm down, or “shake it off.”

RAISED PAW: Not only is a dog raising a front paw a form of submission, it is also an attempt to calm things down, yet another calming signal.

MAKING A “SOFT” FACE: A dog is sending a calming signal when s/he makes a “soft face,” including eyes back, eyelids lowered, forehead smoothed, or mouth closed.

SCRATCHING: Dogs will often make an attempt to calm themselves by suddenly sitting, possibly turning away, and scratching themselves. This “deflection” happens frequently in training classes when a dog is learning something new; after all, learning can often be stressful for our dogs.

There are many benefits in understanding your dog’s body language. In doing so, handlers gain insights about how the dog is feeling; therefore, becoming advocates for their dog. When we pay close attention to these signals, we build a healthy and even stronger relationship with our dogs. Understanding calming signals and body language can frequently minimize our frustration and misunderstanding of what is really happening. As handlers, we can become more empathetic and find solutions to support our dogs in various situations. Calm, quality interactions are more beneficial to building communication skills with our dogs than quantity of interactions. Being able to communicate with your dog builds a trusting relationship in which your dog is able to see you as being on its side, as well as a supportive partner. Better yet, handlers gain insights as to whether or not certain stressors provide a good opportunity for learning (within the dog’s skill set), or whether it is best to call it quits for the day. Finally, it’s vital that handlers LOOK, LISTEN, and LEARN about the reasons behind canine behaviors and calming signals. Indeed, the world of dog language is fascinating!

References:

            Coulee Region Humane Society (Onalaska, Wisconsin)

            What are Canine Calming Signals & How Do They Work? https://www.psychologytoday.com

Trainers from the instinct sports know something that can help us in obedience -the value of intrinsic motivation.

While we need to teach with food and toys and praise, these need to be considered teaching tools. Your teaching tools are there to help you clarify the concept that you are trying to communicate, but in no way should be keeping your dog engaged and with you. Your dog needs to be enjoying working with you, and should not be working for his food. While this almost looks the same, there is a ginormous difference.

If you are confused by what I mean, go take all leashes and training equipment off your dog, and empty your pockets, and go and stand still. Is your dog pestering you to do something with them? If yes, all is good. If all you see is a tail and a bum, then when you get your food they are suddenly ever-present, you have some work to do.

I do not want my dogs thinking, "If I do this, I get that." It won't hold when I need them the most.

What we need to instill into our dogs is an inner joy for their work. If they love their work, the work itself becomes the reward.

Rewards quickly steal the play from play and turn it into work. Alternately, focusing on the learning of the work can turn it into play. If you don't believe me, ask some young kids to help you wash your car and observe how they enjoy the sponges and the bubbles, and their finished product. Then the next time pay them $5 for washing your car. Do that twice, and see the difference in their enjoyment as they do it. Rewards stop inherent enjoyment - and instead get us focused on the reward at the end, not the job at hand.

However, there are exceptions where, "If I do this, then I get that," rewards are needed. They have a place when it comes to dull, mundane practice, such as is necessary for any repeated drill like fronts and finishes, that has no purpose to the dog. As Evan Graham says, "Leave something in it for the dog". If the work itself gives the dog nothing, then we need to add it.

Intrinsic Motivation is complex, and will take a while for you to wrap your brain around. Rewards do have a time and place, but the difficulty arises when they are expected. The focus and enjoyment on the challenges of the work lose their value and enjoyment, and rather become a roadblock to their reward. We need to create joyful work, and joyful moments, and find the right balance. Allow work to become enjoyable work, (with a reward at the end) rather than focusing on the reward at the end.

Monique Anstee NADOI-CI #1100, author of "As a Dog Thinketh," is from Victoria, BC CANADA

Experienced trainers and instructors use many kinds of lines when working with a dog. Leashes, long lines, lunge lines, tab lines, shark lines, and even flexi leash lines are all commonplace tools. One kind of line seems to be less known by newer trainers, and that is the house line. I always like using it as it is simple, straightforward, and easy for dogs and people to understand.

The house line is just a length of cord or lightweight line attached to the dog’s collar and used inside the house. The trainer is not holding onto the end. The length and weight of the line should match the size of the dog. Six feet might be perfect for a big dog, while a small dog needs only three or four feet. Para-cord is good, as is sash cord. Some trainers like lightweight nylon, or even fishing line, for small dogs. Metal or plastic chain isn’t good. The end that is dragged ideally should not have a handle, knot, loop, or anything that could cause it to catch on things like furniture. I like the house line to be attached to a buckle collar, but I have seen it hooked on a harness. I don’t recommend attaching the line to a head collar of any type.

Why use a house line? It can be a good “bridge” for that dog that is making progress being loose in the house but not quite all the time. It enables the trainer to easily keep the dog close by, correct long distance for jumping up on people or counters, for putting feet up on furniture, the baby’s carrier, a person eating who should not be crawled upon, or really anything else you don’t want the dog getting into. If you are working on a down stay while you sit and read, the house line can be quite useful as you can place a foot on it if needed. Maybe the dog needs to do better at walking instead of running in the house. Perhaps you have company coming and need a little bit of extra control.

Once attached to the dog’s collar, the house line acts as a “long arm” of the trainer. It is easy to take up and give a little correction or warning, or the trainer can even step on the line. The beauty of a house line is that it’s a passive tool as well as an active one. The house line many times seems to change the emotion or mood of the dog. I don’t know why this happens, but it does appear to calm an active dog and allow restless dogs to “settle” faster. It appears to take bold dogs down “a notch or two,” and help them understand that you are leader.

In most circumstances, a house line isn’t used with young puppies, as they may see the line as just another toy or something to chew. Besides, young puppies need our full attention when loose in the house.

Dogs shouldn’t be on a house line all the time. Only use it when you are there and observing the dog. The line can certainly wrap around an end table and pull a lamp over on the dog or worse. Be cautious when walking around as you can find yourself catching a shoe on the line or even tripping. As with any tool, know how to use it safely and pay attention.

Give the house line a try. Used properly and safely, it can work wonders for the dog while you don’t have to be actively engaged, other than making sure he stays where you can see him. The house line is a tool that has been around a while but deserves modern day use!

Helen is a Life Member and past President of NADOI, and is currently serving as Corresponding Secretary

Here's the scoop. My rescued doberman Tazer has always had high prey drive. Yep. Lots of fun, but can be channeled positively also. One way I found to 'entertain' his overly active high energy was to use those small little pet 'laser flashlights' for him to chase and get into that 'zone' for fun. He absolutely loves chasing it. He would even randomly go try to pick up a small pen, keychain, anything that had the same shape, to bring it to you to convey that he wanted to play that laser game.

Fast forward...years later, we haven't taken out the laser for some time and Tazer is now 10. I now have grandkids...preschool age. I have always been cautious with Tazer around the grandkids because his energy may have been one reason he was relinquished in the first place. He was too much energy and too high prey drive and probably chased the toddler in the home he was residing, causing him to be banished to the garage. I was the lucky one. My grandson came over to the house. I have Tazer on leash and things are going along smoothly, until...I see that wild eye appear and Tazer wants to lunge at my grandson, for what seems no good reason at all. Later on I am trying to figure out what the heck triggered that response. Then...it dawned on me...my grandson was wearing flashing laser light show gym shoes and it sparked that drive into high gear for my dog. And I encouraged and probably added to that excited state of mind. Now changing gears, I now own a 1.5 year old female German Shepherd dog, not as high prey drive, but a young lady nonetheless. I have never played laser light with her. During a recent group training class, though, the peanut gallery of onlookers and dogs for the next class are seated nearby the ring in sight. A little girl comes in and cannot sit still, and yes, she is wearing laser light show gym shoes. My dog could not take her eyes off of her and those shoes.

These encounters have led me to take note and share how something this simple can trigger responses from your dog, something we may not figure out or be aware of the who, what, where, when and why of. Observe your dog, learn what triggers different responses, and work or 'proof' your dog using that knowledge!

Kathleen Bidstrup #1146